Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
